Sewing Machine Needle Size and Type by Fabric
Choose a fabric or a task: the calculator gives the needle type and the sizes listed by BERNINA, in the NM/US format printed on the pack (for example 80/12), with the color band.
Needle type (per BERNINA chart)
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How the calculation works
The recommendations come from the alphabetical list of materials and applications in the BERNINA needle brochure (EN 01/23), which gives each one or more needle types and their sizes. When several needles suit a fabric, they are listed in the brochure's order. Entries that call for special needles (twin, hemstitch, cover stitch) or for a serger are left out.
Size: the first number (NM, metric) is the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter (NM 80 = 0.8 mm blade diameter). The second number on US packs (80/12) is the US size; the pairing follows the brochure's size chart.
Type: the point and the eye change from one type to another. A ball point is made for knits; a slim, acute point (microtex) pierces very fine or densely woven materials; a cutting point pierces leather. The 130/705 H system is the flat-shank needle used by household sewing machines.
Color band: on BERNINA needles, the first color band shows the needle type (blue for jeans, yellow for stretch, and so on) and the second shows the size. Some needles have no type color, and the PRO needles carry theirs on the card only. Other brands use their own codes.
Thread: the thread thickness also sets the needle size, because the thread should pass smoothly and snugly through the eye. A thicker thread (topstitching, embroidery) therefore calls for a larger needle.
Sources:
- BERNINA needle brochure (EN 01/23): needle types, sizes, color code and an alphabetical list of materials, for household sewing machines of all brands
- SCHMETZ — Needle Guide: needle types and available sizes
Sources consulted November 10, 2026
Needle sizes: metric (NM) and US numbering (BERNINA size chart)
| NM (hundredths of a mm) | US size | Blade diameter |
|---|---|---|
| 60 | 8 | 0.60 mm |
| 70 | 10 | 0.70 mm |
| 75 | 11 | 0.75 mm |
| 80 | 12 | 0.80 mm |
| 90 | 14 | 0.90 mm |
| 100 | 16 | 1.00 mm |
| 110 | 18 | 1.10 mm |
| 120 | 19 | 1.20 mm |
Limitations
- These are general guidelines: BERNINA recommends testing the needle on a scrap of the fabric first. Skipped stitches or a breaking thread can point to an unsuitable or worn needle, though thread, tension and threading also matter.
- The recommendations apply to household sewing machines (130/705 H system). Sergers and other special machines can use other needle systems: follow the machine manufacturer's information.
- For thick or multilayer fabrics, BERNINA lists PRO needles, whose longer groove helps prevent skipped stitches and thread breaks.
- BERNINA recommends changing the needle regularly: skipped stitches and thread breaks can also mean the needle needs changing.
Results are estimates. Always check your pattern's instructions and the product label or seller's information.
Frequently asked questions
What do the numbers 80/12 on a needle mean?
80 is the metric size (NM): the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter, so 0.8 mm. 12 is the matching US size. The higher the numbers, the thicker the needle.
What needle should I use for jersey?
BERNINA lists the Jersey/Embroidery needle (medium ball point) in 70/10 or 80/12, and the Stretch needle in 75/11 for elastic jerseys. The eye and scarf of the Stretch needle can help prevent skipped stitches on highly elastic fabrics.
What needle should I use for denim?
BERNINA lists the Jeans needle in 80/12 to 110/18: its slim, acute point and reinforced blade go through thick, firm fabrics. For several layers of denim (hems, belt loops), it lists the Jeans PRO needle, 80/12 to 100/16.
Is a universal needle enough?
BERNINA lists the Universal needle, in the right size, for many woven fabrics (shirting, linen, wool, gabardine). For knits, silk and microfiber, leather or denim, it lists a dedicated needle type.