How to sew a ribbon bow by hand or machine

A tied ribbon bow looks fine for an afternoon, then the knot slips and the loops sag. A sewn bow has no knot to slip: stitches lock the gathered center, so the loops stay even on a hair clip or a dress sash. The bow starts as a flat loop of ribbon, gets gathered at the middle and ends up with a narrow wrap that hides every stitch. Hand sewing gives you the finest control over the pleats. A sewing machine pays off once you need a dozen matching bows for party favors or holiday packages, because it sews each gathering line in seconds.

A 3 1/2-inch (9 cm) sewn bow takes 13 1/2 inches (34 cm) of 1 1/2-inch (38 mm) grosgrain for the loop and tails, plus a 2 1/2-inch (6 cm) scrap of 3/8-inch (10 mm) ribbon to wrap the center. Sewing it by hand takes about 15 minutes; on a machine, the gathering line takes seconds per bow.

Ribbon, thread and tools

You need ribbon, thread, a needle and a way to seal cut ends. Grosgrain is the easiest ribbon to sew because its ribbed weave grips the thread and resists slipping. Satin looks dressier but shifts under the needle, and wired ribbon is best kept to hand sewing, since a machine needle can strike the wire.

Ribbon is sold by the spool at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Walmart and Amazon. A 3-yard (2.7 m) spool yields exactly eight bows of this size, with nothing left for a practice bow.

Cut, measure and seal the ribbon

The loop length follows a simple rule: double the finished bow width, then add 1 inch (2.5 cm) for overlap. A 3 1/2-inch bow needs an 8-inch loop strip. The tail strip runs about 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the finished width, so 5 1/2 inches for the same bow.

This sizing rule comes from The Ribbon Retreat's bow tutorial on Sew4Home. Applied to other sizes, a 3-inch (7.6 cm) bow takes a 7-inch (18 cm) loop, and a 5-inch (13 cm) bow an 11-inch (28 cm) loop. When you layer two ribbons, stack them and cut both at once so the pieces match.

Seal every cut end before you sew. Polyester and nylon ribbons melt into a clean edge when you pass the cut end quickly beside a flame or a heat-sealing tool. Cotton, silk and rayon ribbons scorch instead of sealing, so dab their ends with a liquid seam sealant such as Fray Check and let it dry.

Sewing the bow by hand, step by step

The hand method uses a single stitch, the running stitch, and one length of doubled thread from start to finish. Hold the loop with its overlapping ends facing you for every step. That way the knot and all the locking stitches stay on the back, where the center wrap and tails hide them.

1. Form the loop. Lay the 8-inch strip wrong side up. Fold each end in toward the middle so the ends overlap by 1 inch at the center. Flip the strip over: the front now shows the right side in one smooth layer, and the bow measures 3 1/2 inches across. Clip the center.
2. Thread the needle. Pass one end of a 24-inch length through the eye, slide the needle to the middle and knot the two ends together. Doubled thread holds a tight gather.
3. Sew the gathering line. Push the needle through all layers at the center, 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the bottom edge, then sew a running stitch (small in-and-out stitches in a straight line) straight up the center to the top edge, keeping the stitches about 1/8 inch long. The knot stays on the back.
4. Gather and pleat. Pull the thread so the center draws up, then pinch it into two or three accordion folds. Adjust until both loops look the same size.
5. Lock the center. Wrap the thread around the gathered center two or three times, pulling firmly. Then take three small stitches through the back layers only, so nothing shows on the front, and knot.
6. Add the tails. Sew the same running stitch across the center of the 5 1/2-inch strip, gather it, and pull each end downward at an angle. Set it behind the bow, wrap the thread around both pieces, take locking stitches and knot.
7. Cover the center. Wrap the 2 1/2-inch strip around the middle so the ends overlap at the back. Stitch through the overlap and the back layers of the gather with three or four stitches, keeping the needle out of the front, then trim any excess.
8. Finish the tails. Fold each tail in half lengthwise and cut from the fold toward the edges at an angle for a V-cut, or cut straight across on the diagonal. Seal the new ends.

How to sew a ribbon bow on a sewing machine

A sewing machine replaces the hand running stitch with a long basting line, which saves time when you make several bows at once. The loop, the tails and the center wrap are prepared exactly as for hand sewing. The wrap still needs a few hand stitches, because a presser foot cannot reach around a gathered center.

1. Set up the machine. Insert the right needle for your ribbon, wind a bobbin in a contrasting color so the gathering thread is easy to spot, and set the longest straight stitch your machine offers, often 5.0 mm (about five stitches per inch).
2. Stack the layers. Form the loop as in the hand method, center the tail strip underneath it and clip the stack.
3. Stitch the gathering line. Sew straight across the ribbon at the center, through all layers. Do not backstitch, and leave thread tails about 4 inches (10 cm) long at both edges.
4. Chain a batch. Pull about 8 inches (20 cm) of thread out of the machine before feeding the next stacked bow under the foot. Cut the bows apart mid-length, so every bow keeps 4-inch tails.
5. Gather. At one edge, tie the top and bobbin threads together in a double knot. At the other edge, pull the bobbin thread to draw up the center; Sew4Home's machine gathering guide recommends the bobbin thread, which it says removes more easily and is less likely to break.
6. Wrap and lock. Pinch the pleats, thread the long tails into a hand needle, wrap them two or three times around the center and take a few locking stitches at the back.
7. Finish by hand. Add the center wrap, then cut and seal the tails as in the hand method.

Fixing a lopsided or loose bow

A sewn bow that looks wrong can usually be saved without new ribbon. Snip the locking stitches on the back, loosen the gather, adjust the loops and stitch again; the old needle holes disappear inside the pleats. If the tail ends scorched, trim off the dark edge and reseal.

• Loops of different sizes mean the overlap drifted off center. Measure from each fold to the middle, re-clip and sew the gathering line again.
• A gather that slips was usually sewn with single thread or locked with a knot alone. Rethread with doubled thread and finish with locking stitches.
• Stitches peeking out at the edges mean the gathering line is wider than the wrap. Switch to a 5/8-inch (16 mm) wrap or pinch the pleats tighter.

Keeping the bow crisp and easy to care for

Firm ribbon holds its loops with no treatment at all. Soft ribbon, such as thin satin, droops unless you stiffen it before shaping. A bow sewn onto clothing also has to cope with laundry, either by coming off before the wash or by surviving a gentle hand wash in cool water.

• To stiffen soft ribbon, mist the finished loops with spray starch or fabric stiffener, slip a pencil inside each loop to hold its curve, and let it dry.
• For a classic tied bow on a sash or wreath, tie it first, then take three or four stitches from the back through the knot and both loops so it cannot work loose.
• To make a bow removable, sew a bar pin or a lined clip to the back through the center wrap.

Frequently asked questions

Can you hot glue a ribbon bow instead of sewing it?

Yes, for gift toppers and wreaths that never get washed. Glue is faster but stiffer, and it can let go with heat or washing, so sewing holds better on hair bows and clothing. Hot glue burns skin, so keep fingers clear and the gun away from children.

What thread is best for sewing ribbon?

All-purpose polyester thread suits most ribbons because it is strong and has a little give. Match the ribbon color for tacked tied bows, where stitches stay visible. For hair bows that get pulled often, a heavier upholstery or button thread holds the gather longer.

How do you sew a bow onto a dress or shirt?

Pin the bow in place, then stitch through the back of the center wrap into the garment with four to six small stitches, catching only the outer fabric layer. Tack under each tail if it flops. Press the garment before you attach the bow, because ironing over it later flattens the loops.

Can you wash a sewn ribbon bow?

Most polyester grosgrain and satin bows survive a gentle hand wash in cool water; remove any clip or pin first. Lay them flat to dry and reshape the loops while damp. Press on a low synthetic setting under a press cloth, since high heat can melt polyester.

Can you sew a bow from fabric instead of ribbon?

Yes, but fabric has raw edges to hide. Cut a strip twice the finished height plus 1/2 inch (1.3 cm), fold it lengthwise with right sides together and sew a 1/4-inch (6 mm) seam. Turn it right side out, press it with the seam centered on the back, then form the loop as you would with ribbon.

Once you have sewn one bow by hand, the rest is repetition. Note the loop length that gave you the size you like, then cut five or six loop and tail strips at once and run them through the machine as a chain. Next, try a double bow: stack a 7-inch loop of 7/8-inch ribbon on top of an 8-inch loop of 1 1/2-inch ribbon and gather both with one running stitch. The same gathering line and center wrap finish hair bows, gift toppers, wreath bows and pillow trims. To keep building hand skills, sew on a button or a patch next.